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Córdoba, lejana y sola | Córdoba, distant and alone
Why visit
The Mezquita-Catedral, a former great mosque turned cathedral with its forest of red-and-white striped arches, is one of the most extraordinary buildings in Europe. The Judería (old Jewish quarter) winds in narrow lanes around the synagogue and Calleja de las Flores. The Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos has Mudéjar gardens and Roman mosaics. In May the Festival de los Patios opens private courtyards bursting with geraniums to the public, a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage event. Try salmorejo (chilled tomato soup) and rabo de toro (oxtail stew) at a tile-walled tavern.
When to avoid
Mid-summer (July to August) is really brutal, Córdoba regularly tops 40°C and is often the hottest city in Europe. Many restaurants and shops close in the afternoon, and sightseeing outdoors is miserable. The Mezquita gets very crowded by mid-morning, go right at opening or book the rooftop tour. Holy Week processions are striking but block central streets.
