Belluno and Caviola, slow days in the Dolomite foothills

Belluno is the Veneto town at the foot of the Dolomites, about two hours north of Venice, and Caviola is the small village in the Val Biois valley an hour further into the mountains. I stayed in Belluno for some time to visit friends who live nearby in Caviola. Clean mountain air and a slower pace with beautiful views make it a worthwhile trek if you have the time. This list collects where I ate in town and the Marmolada day from the valley.

Where to stay

Sporthotel Europa and Astor are the two Belluno hotels on this list. Both are walkable to the old town.

Where to eat in Belluno

The eating skews casual. Ristorante da asporto Tbilisi is the standout, a small Georgian takeaway that brings the dumplings, breads, and stews you might not expect in a Veneto mountain town. The guy running the place is patient and friendly, and the food is a real reset on a cold day. Cantiere del Gusto is the sit-down Italian dinner, and Terracotta and Japan House Belluno cover the broader rotation.

For something quicker, Poke Club Belluno is the lunch bowl, Pizzeria Ristorante Costa and Excalibur are the pizza picks, and Il Koala Pub Shop is the casual beer-and-snack stop. Albergo Ristorante Alle Codole and Albergo Ristorante Monte Civetta are the hotel-restaurant options.

The Marmolada day from Caviola

Marmolada is the highest peak in the Dolomites at 3,343 meters, an hour by car from Caviola. The cable car from Malga Ciapela runs to Punta Rocca for the glacier-edge view and a small museum on the Italian front in the First World War. The views are real. If you are not skiing, bring real cold-weather clothes regardless of the season at the bottom of the mountain. Check the cable-car schedule before you set out.