Utrecht travel guide: where to eat, where to stay, and getting in from AMS

A personal Utrecht travel guide. Train from Schiphol or Amsterdam Centraal, where to stay near Centraal, and the casual Dutch restaurant rotation worth the trip.

Utrecht is the small Dutch university city that gets steadily under-recommended next to Amsterdam. The historic center is canal-laced like Amsterdam but a third the size and a quarter the tourist density, the Dom Tower (the tallest medieval church tower in the Netherlands) anchors the skyline, and the food and cafe scene runs at fair prices. Two or three days is the right length. Pair with The Hague, Rotterdam, or a day trip to the Kröller-Müller Museum.

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Getting in from the airport

Utrecht Amsterdam Schiphol (the international gateway. Utrecht has no major airport) (AMS) has no major international airport. Arrival is by train from Schiphol (AMS) or Amsterdam Centraal, both of which connect directly to Utrecht Centraal.

Mode Time Cost When to use
NS Intercity from Schiphol 35 to 40 min €10 to €12 on OVpay The default. Direct Intercity train from under the AMS terminal to Utrecht Centraal every 15 to 30 minutes
NS Intercity from Amsterdam Centraal 25 min €8 to €9 on OVpay Coming from an Amsterdam stay. The same train one stop down the line
Eindhoven (EIN) via NS train 70 to 90 min €15 to €18 If a low-cost carrier brought you to EIN. Bus 401 to Eindhoven Centraal then Intercity to Utrecht
Brussels-Midi (Thalys via Amsterdam) 160 min €60 to €110 advance From a London Eurostar via Brussels. One change at Amsterdam Centraal

Festivals and big annual events

Utrecht runs a small but real festival calendar, anchored by the Festival Oude Muziek (Festival of Early Music) and the casual energy of a Dutch university town. King's Day is the big national-civic event the same as the rest of the country.

Event When What it changes
Festival Oude Muziek (Festival of Early Music) Late August to early September, 10 days One of the most important early-music festivals in the world. Multiple venues across the historic center (Domkerk, TivoliVredenburg, Hertz Hall). Smaller hotel pressure than the headline Dutch events but the right reason to be in Utrecht if pre-19th-century music is the trip
King's Day (Koningsdag) April 27 The Dutch national holiday. Utrecht's version runs heavily on the canals and the city center. Smaller and more student-feeling than the Amsterdam version
Liberation Day (Bevrijdingsdag) May 5 National holiday. Festivals and free concerts at Park Lepelenburg
Le Mini Who? A Saturday in early October The free music festival across small venues in the city center. Around 50 emerging acts on small-bar stages. Smaller scale, real local-feel reason to be in town
Tweetakt A week in May The youth-and-family theater and arts festival across multiple venues. Smaller hotel pressure
Utrecht Pride A Saturday in early June The parade through the center. Smaller than Amsterdam or Rotterdam Pride
Smartlappenfestival A weekend in June The traditional Dutch sing-along festival in the historic center. Free, local, the unusual specifically-Dutch experience
Cultural Sunday (Culturele Zondag) Multiple Sundays year-round, themed Free citywide cultural programming on specific Sundays. The Utrecht version of an open-museums day
Utrecht Marathon A Sunday in early April Road closures across the city center
Utrecht Christmas Market Mid-December Small, compact, the Christmas market most international visitors do not know exists
Trajectum Lumen Year-round, evening light walk Not a festival but worth flagging: a free year-round permanent light-installation trail through the historic center, lit at dusk

The trip-shaping window is the Festival Oude Muziek in late August. If early music is the trip, this is the one to book around. Otherwise the Utrecht calendar is light enough that almost any week works, which is part of the city's appeal.

Where to stay

Property Note
Crowne Plaza Utrecht - Central Station, an IHG Hotel Pinned

These are the hotels I have pinned from prior stays. Each links to the pin with the address and any notes.

Where to eat

Utrecht food is the Dutch casual side at university-city prices: stroopwafels and herring as the street stops, the bitterballen with cold beer as the standard café snack, and the casual international rotation (ramen, empanadas, sushi) that the student population supports. The picks below cover the casual evening.

Spot Rating
Ana's Lams Dis Pinned
Broadway American Steakhouse Pinned
Champions Sportsbar & Grill Pinned
Frietwinkel Pinned
Hola Empanadas Pinned
ICI Ramen Tepan Pinned
22 pins22 visited

Keep reading

Companion pages on places and themes that overlap with this list.