Church of Panagia Kapnikarea

Panagia Kapnikarea sits below the modern street level in the middle of Ermou, with shops and pedestrian traffic passing on both sides. The cross-in-square church dates to the mid-eleventh century and may stand over an earlier temple dedicated to a female deity. A smaller chapel was later attached to its north side.

The church survived an Ottoman bombardment in 1689 and demolition proposals after Greek independence. Inside, the older decoration was replaced after damage and neglect. Fotis Kontoglou and his students painted the current frescoes beginning in the 1940s. Kapnikarea remains an active Orthodox church rather than a museum, so access can change around services.